Horse for Sale Guide: Every Tips and Need to Knows on Buying Your First Horse

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Her daughters, Lucinda Sims and Philippa Stacey, were largely taught by their grandmother, the redoubtable Betty Skelton, who founded the Side Saddle Association, and her youngest son, Will, was shipped out to a neighbour, the showjumper Jabeena Maslim. This approach paid off.

What Size Horse Do I Need: Beginner's Guide

They will let you know when they want to go faster or jump a bigger fence. I want my girls to be in their comfort zone in the ring. All children need a kind, quiet pony for those crucial early days. Now two, Freddie enjoys riding Mr Socks, a year-old Shetland, in and out from the field and was dressed up as a pumpkin to sit on him last Halloween. Riding instills confidence, kindness and self-discipline in children. There is, however, a flip side.

Cost of a horse

Sooner or later, your child will try to pinch your horse. Association of British Riding Schools ; www. If your son or daughter is completely pony mad, consider sending them to a school that can nurture their riding. Bring emissions to net-zero by , the public urges politicians. There are a number of people who deal in buying and selling horses; not all are reputable. Always check them out before you go and see the horse you are interested in.

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Viewing your potential horse Once you have made all the above considerations, found adverts of horses that appeal to you and match your criteria, you now need to prepare yourself for contacting the owner and arranging a visit. Before you make initial contact with the seller, make a list of questions to ask over the phone to determine whether this horse may be potentially suitable; this could save you a wasted journey, time and money.

Consider the following questions when making your list, these may need to be adapted depending on whether you want a horse for ridden work or as a companion:. Once you have asked all the questions over the telephone, do not make a decision immediately. Tell the seller that you will call them back to arrange a visit once you have had time to think. If you feel sure that the horse may be suitable, then call back the seller and arrange a visit.

A horse that has been in poor condition for prolonged periods may have long term complications.

How to buy your first horse

Tip: watch the hind legs tracking and try to notice if the horse is well balanced when walking, flowing when trotting and comfortable in the canter. Well balanced horse - is a nicely conformed type. The horse should be in proportion to its breed with good bone, perfect feet, an intelligent head and an alert eye. Good girth — the horse should be balanced in length from the wither, to the hip, to the tail dock. A good deep girth gives more room for the organs. Strong knees — look for correct and flat knees with a centre line running through the canon, fetlock and hoof.

didogtiber.tk Average knees are offset, however can be okay provided the tendon behind the knee is vertical to the fetlock joint at the rear. Bad knees are very open and have a weak structure. Good feet not boxed - perfect feet are strong wide feet that have great shape, are not too flat and have a good toe. A good toe is nicely rounded at the base and the sole of the hoof has a good width.

Box feet tunnel feet are a problem because they create shoeing complications due to not enough wall on the hoof. Size — again ask the question does it suit my original criteria. Size for performance is not always relevant as long as the horse suits your needs. Such horses usually carry considerable blood from saddle horses, standardized horses, Morgan horses, or any of hundreds of light horse breeds.

They are trim and neat in appearance and look good under saddle. One type of horse that often does not make a satisfactory riding horse, although many of them are recommended for this purpose, are the small, undersized draft or workhorses.


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Many of these horses are short and chubby and have typical draft-horse legs with a lot of hair on them, their feet are large and they usually have a heavy, disproportionately large head. The only recommendation for these horses is the size. Most of them are not very tall—about 15 hands or slightly more, and they are usually not too heavy, but they do not have the right body conformation. This type of horse is hard riding and is not fast and handy as one would expect. They are small for a satisfactory draft or work horse and the dealers often pass them off as a riding horse.

Actually, they are not of riding quality at all—just a small, undersized draft or work horse. In general, I would advise the person about to buy a private pleasure mount to pass up the ordinary livery horse or one that has been used in a riding academy or riding stable. Some good horses have been purchased out of these places, but most often they have seen their best days and are not very satisfactory. Livery horses in most stables develop a lot of tricks; many of them are barn sour, and with the amateur or beginner are likely to cause a lot of trouble.

They get in the habit of doing whatever they want to do regardless of their rider, and when once they have developed this habit they are not easy to cure.

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Livery horses are also undesirable because they have had such hard use that they are pretty well worn out. Some of the better stables watch their horses very closely and sell them off after they have had the best use out of them. It is not good business nor profitable to buy a crippled or injured horse regardless of how fine he might be if normal.

Cripples may recover and make very fine horses, but there is always the danger that a crippled or injured horse will remain so. The most common mistakes made by the amateur horseman in selecting a personal mount is that of buying a young, inexperienced horse, perhaps an unbroken colt or one that has been used very little. This is the most unsuitable mount for an inexperienced person to buy.

The chances are very great that with an inexperienced horseman and amateur rider such, a horse becomes so badly spoiled as to be utterly useless. For best results I recommend buying a mature horse, one five to ten years of age that is well broken and trained and that has had the kind of use that you expect to give it Until you have had a lot of experience with horses and know how to handle them under all conditions, you should not buy a horse that has been spoiled. Under proper handling and management, some spoiled horses can be made into first-class animals. A spoiled horse is usually the result of improper handling by an inexperienced horseman.

They are often sold at bargain prices, but the time required to get these horses working satisfactorily is entirely too great, and it is unlikely that the amateur horseman will ever get any satisfaction or pleasure from them. Nor would I advise you to buy a very old horse for a personal pleasure mount. Some are very pleasant to ride and use and in their day have been rated among the best.

However, if you get one of these old horses, enjoy the horse and get along well with it, its age begins to make the horse undesirable, and soon you may find it necessary to retire the veteran.

Must Have's and Tips when Buying your First Horse!

In buying a riding horse, you should keep in mind that horse dealers usually never offer a horse for sale that is more than twelve years old. Many of these so-called twelve-year-olds are actually seventeen or eighteen, maybe even twenty. For this reason I advise the buyer to try to get a horse of good age—and by that I mean somewhere between five and ten years old.

You should ride this horse just as you would expect to ride it if you had purchased it. Many horses will ride fine for a few minutes, or when taken around where they are accustomed to the locality, but away from their home surroundings they prove worthless.


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  • It would be better to have the seller or someone else ride along with you on another horse and then ride at some distance from where this horse is stabled. Ride on the highways if possible, or at least ride under the conditions you expect to encounter after you have purchased it. I mean by this that if you are interested in purchasing this horse and find the horse under saddle and being ridden by someone, do not mount this horse or give it a trial under such conditions.

    Make a future date with the seller or owner, go to the stable or barn where this horse is kept, and start out from there. It is a common practice wherever it can be worked with horses that are barn sour or stale to saddle them up, have someone ride them on the trail or along the highway or elsewhere, and when a prospective purchaser wants to try them, drive out in a car to where the horse is being used and try it out from there.

    This gets the horse away from the bam and stable without a lot of trouble; and another thing, if this horse happens to be a little stiff or sore, by taking it out and wanning it up it goes sound.

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